Bom Dia! Recife & Olinda, Brazil
They have a joy for life in Brazil unlike any country I’ve ever seen.
Morena Baccar
Today we arrive in Recife. We’ve been warned that it is NOT a safe city, to leave valuables on board and to take precautions. I’ve never seen this part of Brazil and really have no idea what to expect.
As we approach the coast early in the morning, the sight makes me catch my breath. The only cities I’ve seen in Brazil are Belém and Manaus. Both fight a desperate, losing battle with the Amazon jungle that slowly reclaims them. The fine marble that once gleamed with rubber export wealth is now dingy and dull, streaked with black, and sprouts trees and vines from any crevice dirt and decay can gather.
That is not what I see today. Tall white towers shine in the morning sun. The shore itself is two long stretches of white sand, not the thick tangle of green joining land to water I was expecting. Yes, we are in a different country all together.
Today we are taking another DoBrazilRight tour. This one is a city tour of Recife, and of Olinda, a beautiful suburb to the north with stunning views. We are in a berth here, so there is no tender line up to contend with. We simply walk off, take a shuttle through the busy container terminal, and follow the signs to our bus. There are about 20 of us on the bus, with our own guide.
Recife was founded in 1637, and there are still many buildings in the old town from that era. The years have treated neighbouring streets and buildings differently. Some showcase their heritage, while others simply showcase the passage of time. All of them are fascinating. The Dutch and the Portuguese battled back and forth for possession here, and you can see the difference between the architecture of the two cultures in the old houses lining the streets. Please forgive me for forgetting the names of the important government and religious buildings we see – there is no shortage of them! I will remember their beauty and grace, which is more important.
Then we head to Bom Viagem, a seven kilometre long stretch of white sandy beach along the Recife waterfront. It is the longest urban beach in the world, we are told. By the ocean, we see buildings of modern times, the white towers that showed in the morning sun from out at sea. Nor are they basic blocks – again, the architecture here is fascinating, and the buildings have curves and character.
Bom Viagem beach is beautiful, colourful, lively, and hot. Everything is hot today. It is a drier heat than the Amazon, but dear lord is it hot! We are just here to look for a few minutes, not to go in the water. However, we are who we are, and my socks and shoes come off and I let the beautiful south Atlantic waves wash over my feet. Of course, I’ll finish the day with sand in my socks, but nothing worthwhile comes without a price.
Now we head to Olinda. Before we reach the wealthier suburbs, we pass through areas that are less fortunate. Some houses are basically shacks with tin roofs and shaky looking additions thrown up here and there. Some of what we see are not easy places to live and raise a family. But I also notice that while we pass many bridges, no one lives under them, or in the city parks and freeway right of ways. This has become everyday life in the cities of home where shacks and shanties aren’t allowed. It is certainly food for thought.
Now we reach Olinda, from the Portuguese for ‘how beautiful’. And it is beautiful. I take far too many pictures of bright coloured houses on the steep cobblestone streets. And flowers, and the cathedral, and the sweeping views back over Recife, Bom Viagem beach, and the harbour with our Amsterdam waiting for us. We visit an artisan handcraft market, where I can shop for things NOT made in China or India!
Everywhere today there are tiny multicoloured umbrellas, either for sale or display. Our tour guide gives us each one as a momento. This originated with a form of ritual fighting that came from Africa with the slaves. It became outlawed, so umbrellas were incorporated into the weapons. Furled, they were the weapons used in the fight. When word came that police were coming, in a second the fight and the weapons became a dance with umbrellas. Nothing to see here, and no arrests made.
After a while we board the bus and return to Recife. We get out at Bom Jesus Street and break for lunch. David and I find a restaurant in an old building and have a table at an open window overlooking the square. It is SO hot inside, but the big open casement window helps and the old brick and beams and bright paintings inside are hard to resist. The menu, of course, is in Portuguese, and the staff don’t speak English. The manager speaks about eight English words, and I have a similar number of really badly pronounced Portuguese words. This and the international language of talking with your hands lets us order, receive, and pay for lunch. We end up with identical and delicious plates of flattened, grilled chicken breast, rice mixed with broccoli, and puréed potato. I have coconut water, and David has unflavoured, unsparkling, regular water. All this surprises me, since it’s exactly what I thought I was ordering. Kudos to all involved! It’s fun, and an accomplishment I’m ridiculously proud of.
After lunch, we tour two museums; one is giant puppets of celebrities, and the other is carnival related. We also visit the first synagogue in the americas, north or south. Bare portions of the original stone walls and floor from the 1600’s are visible, and carefully cordoned off.
We move on to Ground Zero square, the spot where Recife was born back in 1637. We tour one last artisan market, and return to the ship.
It’s been a good day, and I have enjoyed Recife far more than I expected. I’ve also learned more about the Brazilian people and culture. The day has been long, and hot, so a shower is in order before sail away. The Amsterdam backs out through the breakwater and leaves Recife as the sun sets behind the white towers on shore.
Now for two sea days, then see you in Rio de Janeiro!
Senses of Today: The sight of the white towers of Recife shining in the morning sun as we approached. The sound of two men with guitars serenading diners at an outdoor cafe in Olinda. The feel of the warm ocean washing over my feet on Bom Viagem beach. The smell of leather in the artisan market in Olinda. The taste of toasted coconut from a street vendor on Bom Jesus Street.
Today’s Tip: When booking an independent tour, rather than one from the cruise line, do your research. What are you getting into? Odds are the cruise line offers a similar tour. Read their brochure , and apply the same warnings to the tour you want to book. Does the ship tour say to bring sunscreen and a hat? The cruise line doesn’t have a monopoly on sun stroke. Does it say you must be able to navigate steep, cobblestone streets? The street doesn’t care who you booked your tour with. It’s still going to be steep, and it’s still going to be bumpy. You hate swimming and they say to wear a bathing suit? It’s independent equivalent is not the tour for you! Choose and plan accordingly and your day will be much better!
A Passport in my Parasol 
Laura, loving your well written commentary and pics!
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