Buenos Dias, Punta Del Este, Uruguay- January 23, 2020

Uruguay is a well-kept secret – Juan Campodonico

Punta Del Este from the ship. Note the lighthouse in the middle of town!

Good morning, Uruguay! The sun rises in shades of misty pink over the Atlantic in direct line with our window. We come into the mouth of the Rio de la Plata with the sun just over the horizon. I have never been to Uruguay, so I throw on clothes and dash out on deck. The moderately warm, fragrant air stops me in my tracks. I’ve never smelled air like this. There is a sweet smell mixed with the salt of the Atlantic. It is floral and uplifting. If they could bottle this, it would be my favourite perfume.

The tenders pull alongside

This is a tender port, so we anchor in the harbour about a fifteen minute boat ride from the pier.

Today David and I have a ship’s tour, so we don’t need to join the line for tender tickets. We head for the Main Stage at our assigned time and are sent to the tender with our group, all carefully wearing our stickers so we everyone ends up on the right bus.

Loading the tender to go ashore
A glimpse of town from the tender with the Amsterdam looking on

The pier is lovely, and clean. The whole town is clean. Punta Del Este was build as a resort town for the nearby cities of Montevideo and Buenos Aires. The buildings are newer. Even the older ones are relatively recent, and look more like important ranch houses. Much of the city is modern, and all is oriented to visitors. All of us notice how clean the city is. There are lots of public garbages, and they are used by all. It is also dryer here, with no riotous growth between the stones of older buildings. We have left the humid tropics behind. Although there are plenty of palm trees around the tourist buildings, they do not grow on there own where they are not tended. Instead there are forests of pine and eucalyptus. This was probably a strong component of that wonderful scented air in this morning.

Pine groves

We drive pass the usual list of interesting buildings that I look at, photograph, and immediately forget the name and history of. We see the lighthouse in the center of old town. This seems strange, until I realize that old town is on the tip of a very narrow peninsula. And from this spot, the lighthouse can be seen from all direction at sea and the huge river. I think the lighthouse predates the town, but don’t quote me.

Lots of brick buildings, quite different than Brazil
She sits in the middle of a neighborhood

The peninsula juts down into the river mouth, separating the river from the Atlantic. Both sides are lined with beautiful beaches. The Atlantic side is know as Wild Beach, very picturesque with crashing waves and rocks and crescent beaches set like jewels between rugged craigs of rock. The Rio de la Plata side is known as Calm Beach, with long stretches of white sand and gentle waters. This is where the yachts shelter, and families spend the day sunning and swimming and buying drinks and hamburgers.

The Calm Beach side

We drive up the Wild Coast, stopping at a famous sculpture of a giant hand, or at least the fingers, rising from the sand. Two cruise ships are in, and bus after bus pulls in to photograph the fingers. A local dog is sleeping in the shade of the little finger. He is unconcerned with the mass of strangers coming and going, so long as he can keep his prize location. While most of us wait on the bus, our tour guide rounds up the last elusive stragglers and we move on.

The famous hand on the Wild Beach side
An important nap spot for some
Not impressed at waking up

Next stop is the Ralli Museum of Art, with its fabulous collection of South American Art. There is an impressive collection of Salvador Dali sculptures. The gallery and its layout is as impressive as the masterpieces it contains. Many photos later, we return to the bus and wait as our guide and her whistle bring the stragglers back once again.

Paintings inside the galleries
Statues in the courtyards
With the Salvador Dali collection in glass niches

We continue to Punta Ballena, a viewpoint east of town with sweeping views up and down the coast. The stragglers are hunted down one last time, and we head back to port.

Looking over Calm Beach from Punta Ballena
The point itself has a more dramatic shore
Not that we came here alone

We still have a couple of hours to explore town. David and I head up the Rambla, the walkway along the Calm Beach side of town. On one side of the road are boutiques and cafes. On the other is the shore, where marinas give way to miles of beach and beach goers. We leave the shore and walk a couple of blocks up. We are on the spine of the peninsula, looking down towards the water in three directions. Although the day is hot, the streets with their upscale shops have a refreshing ocean breeze at all times. It’s easy to see why this town is known as the Monico of South America. (Minus the Grande Pris, of course.)

Shops on the ‘spine’
Too big to bring home
The sea on either side

Before we go back to the ship, we stop at an artisan gelato shop. I have a wonderful dulce de leche gelato bar dipped in chocolate.

Now we take the tender back to the Amsterdam, and get ready to raise the anchor and sail away. See you tomorrow in Buenos Aires!

Taking the tender home

Senses of today: The sight of pine forests, similar to the pines of home, and yet differently shaped. The sound of our guides whistle, frantically calling missing tourists back to the bus. The feel of the fresh ocean breeze along streets that should be inland, but actually aren’t. The smell of the morning air, perfumed with pine and eucalyptus and something floral mixed with the salty tang of the Atlantic. The taste of Dulce de Leche gelato from the shop by the pier.

The gelato shop by the pier

Today’s Tip: When you’re on a tour, please return to the bus on time. Yes, it’s nice to have a little more time to browse, but it will cut time off your next stop, which you might have enjoyed more.

One thought on “Buenos Dias, Punta Del Este, Uruguay- January 23, 2020

  1. We are enjoying te pictures and your story as you travel each town and country great job I feel like I am on tour with you right there today at home snow on the ground a later rain Turing into either snow or ice looking forward to your next stop love pam and jim

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