Some journeys lead us far from home. Some adventures lead us to our destiny. – C. S. Lewis
After a day at sea, we make landfall this morning in Copenhagen, Denmark. I take my coffee to the Crows Nest to watch the sunrise as we near land.
Sailing in, I can see differences between this city and the one we left two days ago. There are canals here, too, and of course wind generators by the sea. But here the similarity to Amsterdam ends. The canals here are fewer, more commercial, and don’t have to work so hard. They are natural sea water and go up and down with the tide. Pumps and sluice gates are not needed. They are straight, stone walled and man made, as are many of the small islands in the harbour.
We are booked on a tour called Copenhagen by Canal and Coach, so I can’t really pretend to be surprised by the canals. After breakfast, David and I head out to our bus. It is warm here after the cold of Amsterdam. Spring is definitely coming! Of course, Copenhagen is not on the Atlantic and doesn’t deal with those punishing cold winds.
This bus takes us to the canal boat. Our land tour is later. This time, we get an outdoor seat in the back of the boat. The view is clearer, and the outside sounds and smells aren’t hidden like they are inside. Our boat guide does does a good commentary. No earbuds needed today! His voice rises and falls with high inflections. He is very funny as well as informative.
The air is warm, and I see cherry trees in bloom on land. A swan glides right up to us as we pass. A lot of the buildings here are connected to royalty. A king lived in them, or stabled his horses in it, or built it to honour someone. Kings kept the stonemasons well employed back in the day.
One building is called the Marble Palace. Construction was underway before it was realized that marble was too expensive and construction stopped. The abandoned ruin sat for 130 years before a more practical king had it finished in cheaper material painted to look like marble. There is always a solution!
We see the Little Mermaid from the water side, and inner canals that pass under bridges that boats higher or wider by a few inches can’t pass. There aren’t as many canals as Amsterdam, but there are enough for an interesting exploration of the old city.
At the end of the canal ride, it’s back to the bus. We go to the Kings Square by Nyhavn, a wide canal dug centuries ago by Swedish prisoners of war. Today it is lined with busy cafes and brightly painted houses, but we’re out of time to wander here.
Last stop is The Little Mermaid. She is a life size bronze statue of a young woman with a fish tail. From the number of people who are surprised at how small she is, I’m guessing the size of the average Danish girl is universally overestimated. The tide is low, and she sits on her rock at the shores edge, not fenced but watched by guards to ward off vandalism.
This is also where the shuttle bus to the ship runs to. Instead of going back to the ship with our tour, David and I say our farewells and head off on foot. Maps.me is marked and will lead us into town and back. It is an easy walk past St. Albany’s Church and up the street back to the Kings Square.
Now we can tour the area without time pressure, and wander along the Nyhavn cafe patios looking for lunch. We meet friends just finishing lunch, and join them at the table. We order, and they stay for another drink in the spring sunshine. I have lox on gluten free bread, topped with shaved cheese, capers, and dill. Eating at an outdoor cafe laughing with friends in the sun in Denmark. Moments like this, relaxing and unexpected, are some of the major joys of travel.
After lunch, we explore a mirrored exhibit in the square. Small on the outside, the interior holds a spring garden stretching into infinity.
We pass down Nyhavn and follow the waterfront instead of the city street we came by. There is a cobbled pedestrian street, with occasional local vehicles moving slowly through the throng of pedestrians and bicycles. The tires going so slowly over the deep jointed cobbles creates a low vibrating purr, like a contented cat.
After a time, we come to a park we glimpsed on our way out. There is a wide lawn under a pavilion of cherry trees in full bloom. The air fills with their delicate and delightful scent.
Around the edges white tents are setting up. Tomorrow is the start of the Copenhagen Sakura Festival. This Japanese festival offers demonstrations of martial arts, tea ceremonies, artistic creations, and more. I’m sorry we will miss it, but you can’t have it all.
Beyond the cherry blossoms, we return to The Little Mermaid. After taking photos from various angles, and watching for pickpockets, it’s time to stroll along the curving street of trees bursting into leaf and find our shuttle.
Back aboard the Zuiderdam, we have dinner and sail away into the sunset. Tomorrow will find us in Oslo, the first of five ports in Denmark. Watch for Viking long boats on the way!
Senses of Copenhagen:
The sight of The Little Mermaid statue.
The sound of cars purring slowly over the cobblestones like a cat.
The feel of warm spring air!
The smell of masses and masses of cherry blossoms.
The taste of lox on toast with capers and dill and Danish cheese shavings.
Today’s Tip: If you get a chance to strike out on your own at the end of a tour, do it! That way you get the freedom to explore WITH the facts you learned from your guide. Just be absolutely certain there’s enough time to get back to the ship!
A Passport in my Parasol 